Introduction to Carrier Peptides
In the evolving world of cosmeceuticals, carrier peptides play a fundamental role in skin health. These peptides are amino acid sequences specifically responsible for the stabilization, transportation, and delivery of trace elements to epithelial skin cells.
While their primary biological function is often associated with enzymatic processing—providing essential cofactors for wound healing and repair—they are now widely recognized for their cosmetic applications. By effectively delivering trace elements into tissues, these peptides bridge the gap between basic skin maintenance and active biological regeneration.
The Power of Copper: Cu-GHK
One of the most critical trace elements transported by this class of peptides is Copper (II) ($Cu^{2+}$)3. This element is not only necessary for healing wounded tissue but also serves as a vital cofactor for several key enzymes4:
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Lysyl Oxidase: Critical for collagen synthesis.
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Superoxide Dismutase: Essential for superoxide dismutation (antioxidant action).
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Tyrosinase: Important for melanogenesis.
Regenerative Effects on the Extracellular Matrix (ECM)
The first commercial copper tripeptide compound, Cu–GHK, has demonstrated significant potential in remodeling the Extracellular Matrix (ECM). It promotes the synthesis of vital structural components, including collagen, elastin, glycosaminoglycans, and proteoglycans.
This synthesis triggers the stimulation of cellular regulation molecules, leading to the regeneration and healing of skin and other tissues. Consequently, Cu–GHK plays an important role in dramatically improving the appearance and texture of the skin.
Figure 1: Proposed Cu-GHK for skincare application
Spotlight: Manganese (Mn-GHK) and Photoageing
Beyond copper, other transition metals play essential roles in skin physiology. Manganese ($Mn$) is an essential nutrient involved in amino acid, cholesterol, and carbohydrate metabolism, as well as antioxidant protection9.
A key defense mechanism against environmental damage is Mn-superoxide dismutase, which is considered very important in defending the skin against UV-induced photoageing10. Research has found that levels of Mn-superoxide dismutase increase through the action of inflammatory mediators (such as IL-1 and TNF-α) during UV irradiation11.
Based on this mechanism, Manganese Tripeptide-1 (Mn–GHK) was formulated. It aims to provide functionality similar to that of Cu–GHK but with a specific focus on treating photoageing12.
Case Study: UltraHeal-Pro (Copper Tripeptide-1)
The following case study illustrates the practical application and efficacy of Copper Tripeptide-1 in a commercial formulation.
Product Profile:
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Molecular Formula: $C_{14}H_{22}N_{6}O_{4}Cu$
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Application: Skin Care
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Description: UltraHeal-Pro is a five-coordinated complex formed by a Gly-His-Lys (GHK) tripeptide and a copper ion. The charge transfer between the copper ion and its surrounding ligand gives the compound its distinct blue color.
Key Benefits:
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Growth Factor Activity: Acts as a growth factor promoting the proliferation of keratinocytes and dermal fibroblasts.
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ECM Synthesis: Promotes the synthesis of extracellular matrix components such as collagen and glycosaminoglycans (GAGs).
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Anti-Inflammatory & Antioxidant: Inhibits the expression of inflammatory factors and provides antioxidant effects.
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Cosmetic Results: Increases skin firmness, reduces fine lines, and provides skin-soothing benefits.
Efficacy Data:
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ROS Inhibition: UltraHeal-Pro can inhibit UV-induced Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS).
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Collagen Production: Demonstrates promotion of collagen production in human fibroblasts (comparable to TGF-$\beta$1 positive control).
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Inflammation: Shows inhibition of TNF-$\alpha$ in mouse mononuclear macrophages.
Summary of Market-Available Carrier Peptides
The table below summarizes the two primary carrier peptides discussed, highlighting their mechanisms of action and cosmetic functionalities.
| Name of Peptide | Commercial Name | Mechanism of Action | Cosmetic Functionality |
|
Copper Tripeptide-1 (Cu-GHK) (Glycyl-histidyl-lysine) |
Aldenine®, Trylagen®, UltraHeal-Pro |
Potent activator of wound healing. Induces collagen remodeling by upregulating MMP-2, TIMP-1, and TIMP-2. Increases synthesis of dermatan sulfate, chondroitin sulfate, collagen, elastin, proteoglycans, and GAGs. |
• Anti-ageing • Anti skin laxity • Anti-wrinkles • Antioxidant • Anti-inflammatory • Dermis redensification • Wound healing |
| Manganese Tripeptide Complex-1 (Mn-GHK) | (Various) |
Stimulates matrix protein growth. Activates antioxidant responses and the manganese-superoxide dismutase pathway. |
• Reduce photodamage • Anti-wrinkles • Anti-ageing |
References
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Aguilar-Toalá, J.E.; Hernández-Mendoza, A.; González-Córdova, A.F.; Vallejo-Cordoba, B.; Liceaga, A.M. Potential role of natural bioactive peptides for development of cosmeceutical skin products. Peptides 2019, 122, 170170.
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Ahsan, H. The biomolecules of beauty: Biochemical pharmacology and immunotoxicology of cosmeceuticals. J. Immunoass. Immunochem. 2018, 40, 1–18.
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Ferreira, M.S.; Magalhães, M.C.; Sousa-Lobo, J.M.; Almeida, I.F. Trending anti-aging peptides. Cosmetics 2020, 7, 91.
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Hussain, M.; Goldberg, D.J. Topical manganese peptide in the treatment of photodamaged skin. J. Cosmet. Laser Ther. 2007, 9, 232–236.
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Liu, T.; Hu, L.; Lu, B.; Bo, Y.; Liao, Y.; Zhan, J.; Pei, Y.; Sun, H.; Wang, Z.; Guo, C. A novel delivery vehicle for copper peptides. New J. Chem. 2023, 47, 75–83.
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Pickart, L.; Schagen, S. New data of the Cosmeceutical and tripeptide GHK. SOFW J. 2015, 9, 141.
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Schagen, S.K. Topical Peptide Treatments with Effective Anti-Aging Results. Cosmetics 2017, 4, 16.
